A REAL TASTE OF SCOTLAND AT SCOTLAND'S FOOD FORTNIGHT
by Journalist and Travel Writer Linda Jackson
Being greeted by an excited rabble of well behaved urchins emerging from the 16th century kitchen at Glamis Castle was a unique start to our day and one which set the mood of innovation and discovery during a short visit to Scotland.
Having travelled through the rolling Angus hills draped in purple heather and enjoyed the vast skies and immense vistas over this area of considerable ancient history, our journey through the fertile Strathmore valley stopped in the grounds of Glamis Castle, childhood home of the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother and the spectacular setting for the launch of Scottish Food Fortnight 2007, a two-week showcase of Scottish Food and Drink when Scottish producers and suppliers unite to raise the awareness of the quality and variety of food and drink from around Scotland.
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The local school children, clad in period costume, crossed the lush lawns on their way to present their extravaganza of local cheeses and smoked venison canapés to the assembled guests and media.
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Where better than Glamis Castle to launch this two-week promotion of Scottish foods and products during which more than 200 events are scheduled to take place across Scotland: events ranging from local fairs and markets to the prestigious Dundee Flower & Food Festival; from deli-tastings at Springer’s Delicatessen (Forfar) and Harvey McGuires (Pitscottie), to the production of a special SFF haggis, neeps and tatties pie invented by The Pie Mill for the occasion.
Animated cookery demonstrations by celebrity chefs, game barbeques at Castleton House Hotel, scrumptious meals at up-and-coming eating places and multi-course tasting menus at top-quality restaurants are all listed and there to savour. Everyone in Scotland’s food and hospitality industry is stepping up a gear for this special fortnight to actively promote Scottish produce - unquestionably amongst the best in the world. We were poised to enjoy! |
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The campaign, Scottish Food Fortnight (SFF), recently awarded the prestigious Food Tourism Award at the CIS Excellence Awards 2007 in Glasgow, was established in 2003 by the Scottish Countryside Alliance Educational Trust (SCAET). SFF’s aim is not only to raise awareness of the quality and variety of Scotland’s food and drink but also to encourage us to change the habit of what we eat and where we buy it; to reduce “food miles”, and to appreciate the benefits of fresh, seasonal, local produce. |
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This annual celebration of Scottish produce has been backed by some of the country’s leading culinary names, such as food columnist and cookery expert Lady Claire Macdonald (patron of SFF) who advocates the importance of cooking and eating produce that is cultivated, caught and grown locally; award-winning author Scottish chef Wendy Barrie who is dedicated to the initiative and sings its praises; and Edinburgh-based Michelin star chef Martin Wishart who feels that Scotland’s main aim is to develop positive networking between restaurants, local food outlets and Scottish producers. As for the legendary Gordon Ramsey... maybe his wicked ‘F’ word could soon be superseded - even he agrees that “Scottish produce is world class, from the most amazing scallops and lobsters to the finest beef in the world”. Fabulous! |
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Flavoursome, and more, is how we found our SFF “first course” prepared in the grounds of Glamis Castle by award-winning chef Kevin MacGillivray and Director of EatScotland together with head chef of Castleton House Hotel, Andrew Wilkie,under whose direction the hotel has been awarded 3 AA rosettes. Several brace of feathered grouse were ceremoniously piped into the barbeque area, then plucked and simply but expertly barbecued alongside different cuts of venison, highland game, and herb-flavoured game kebabs. |
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Mouth-watering smoked duck, salmon and venison, together with a range of Scottish cheeses were served on oatcakes with plum sauce or chutney garnishes, everything kindly donated by suppliers, many of which were exhibiting at the three-day annual Dundee Flower & Food Festival... our next stop and venue for the “next course” of in this day long tasting menu.
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The Dundee Flower & Food Festival, held in marquees set in the rural style ambience of Camperdown Country Park is a must for anyone’s diary. The Food Festival section sponsored by Sainsbury’s goes from strength to strength every year. The food marquee hosted around 40 stands stocked with Scottish produce where visitors could discover, taste and buy some of Scotland’s finest produce. |
On a TV style demonstration kitchen stage numerous cookery demonstrations by renowned chefs take place. Names such as Craig Millar from The Seafood Restaurants (3 AA Rosettes) in St Monans and St Andrews (Culinary Excellence Restaurant of the Year Award Winner at the CIS Excellence Awards 2007); chef and food columnist Geoffrey Smeddle who took over the acclaimed five-star restaurant The Peat Inn in 2006; and celebrity chef James Martin, presenter of BBC’s “Saturday Kitchen” – a big draw for this year’s Festival. |
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On entering the Food tent there was a genuine sense of excitement and discovery amongst the press party.
Memorable among the products sampled were the succulent organic sausages and beefburgers from Atholl Glens (six organic tenant farmers on Atholl Estates taking their produce direct to customers via markets and mail order), the rich and fruity Wild Elderberry wine or the dry and spicy Rhubarb wine from Perthshire’s Cairn o’Mohr Fruit Winery and the tangy and varied flavours of the cheeses from a range of handmade Scottish cheese being promoted by The John Muir Country Store (East Lothian). |
A real surprise, to a non-whisky drinker, was the discovery of Brammle, a whisky and blackberry combination from the Scots Cheer company in East Lothian, perfect alternative to the after dinner tipple. Their latest venture, a combination of Spanish Cava and Scottish Blackberries is aptly named' Chambles' - a reflection perhaps on the after effects.We also enjoyed sinking our teeth into multi-flavoured specialist fudge from the family-run Inverness Fudge Company, the sweet temptation of fresh Charlotte Flower Chocolates hand-made on the southern shore of Loch Tay (Highland Perthshire) and ice creams from Mackie’s of Scotland. Surprisingly some of us resisted the freshly shucked oysters from Caledonian Oysters (Oban) - realising, somewhat belatedly that our eyes were bigger that our capacity. |
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However, even those who abstained couldn’t resist the smoky aroma of Arbroath Smokies being freshly prepared outside the marquee. Ian Spink’s Arbroath Smokie stall signals its fame through plumes of smoke coming from his oak barrels and the agitated queues of customers eager to enjoy his . award-winning Arbroath Smokies and hot smoked trout fresh off the barrel? My first freshly cooked Smokie and a truly memorable gourmet delight!. |
Our somewhat chaotic tasting menu concluded later that day in the Events Marquee at the with a special wine and food matching “educational” third course, conducted by Jo Williamson from The Wines & Spirits Education Trust and served by students and staff from Dundee College. A glass of 2006 New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc went well with smoked trout with anchovy butter canapés; French Sancerre of the same year matched perfectly with Quails egg, red pepper and mayo nibbles; the 2005 Côtes du Rhone was scrumptious with smoked venison with caper and mayo; and the 2003 Australian Shiraz partnered superbly with beef with creamed horseradish. Although the wine, was not a product of Scotland all of the canapés were the creation of the students from Dundee Collage.
The Glamis Castle and Dundee events may be this years highlights from Scottish Food Fortnight but many other events will be taking place, in some form, throughout Scotland until 16th September. On the 15th September Edinburgh Farmers’ Market is aiming to break the record for the world’s biggest bowl of porridge with a bowl weighing 70kg, with oats provided by Stoats Porridge. Also on the 15th September, after 591 miles of cycling and a time trial around London’s streets, competitors of the 4th Tour of Britain (the British equivalent of the Tour de France) will finish the race to a one-off Farmers’ Market and gala event on Glasgow Green. In association with Scottish Food Fortnight, Glasgow is hosting a garden party event to celebrate healthy living and local food – backed by Nell Nelson, presenter of “The Woman who ate Scotland”. There will be trackside viewing, a chance to take part in cycling competitions, and opportunities to taste some of Scotland’s most exciting and unique flavours.
As someone who hasn’t had the opportunity to enjoy much of Scotland’s food and drink until now, this was a real voyage of discovery – superb food, delightful location s all served and explained with a warmth and enthusiasm which characterises Scottish hospitality. I have my diary already marked for next year and a reminder to bring a larger suitcase.
To taste the true flavour of Scottish Food Fortnight, and to discover where and when, visit www.scottishfoodfortnight.co.uk.
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